Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart: Every System in mm

By Aashu, owner of Stitch Partner. Customers often bring a broken needle to our counter and ask which one to buy. So this sewing machine needle size chart is exactly what we use to answer them.

Jump to: Needle by machine | JACK, Juki and Brother | Needle chart in mm | Size numbers | Look-alike needles | Point types | Identify an unknown needle | अक्सर पूछे जाने वाले प्रश्न

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart: Find Your Needle by Machine

Start here. First, find your machine type, and then note the needle system. The “Also called” column shows other names printed on packets, so any of them will fit. Finally, click the needle name to see sizes and price in our store.

Lockstitch, Overlock and Flatlock Machines

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart for Special Machines

Also, button, chainstitch, hemming and bag closer machines each need their own needle, as shown below.

Not sure which JACK series you have? Our JACK model numbers guide explains the letters. Also, the manual or part book of your machine always names the correct needle.

Needle Size Chart by Brand: JACK, Juki and Brother Machines

Most buyers search by machine brand, so this machine sewing needle size chart lists the needle for each JACK, Juki and Brother model. Any sewing needle size chart gives the system first and the size second. So find your model below, note the system, and then pick the Nm size by fabric from the size table further down.

Juki Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart

For the DDL-8700 and DDL-9000, size 90/14 suits most garments, 75/11 suits shirt fabric and 110/18 suits denim.

Brother Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart

Brother home machines take a flat-shank needle (HAx1), while Brother industrial machines such as the S-7200 take a round-shank DBx1. The two cannot be swapped, because a home machine needs the flat side to set the needle straight.

JACK Sewing Machine Needle Size by Model

The JACK machine needle size depends on the series, because JACK uses the same model letters across different machine types. If you are unsure which series you own, check the JACK model numbers guide first.

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart in mm: Length, Shank and Eye

Use this table especially when you have an old needle but no packet. All values are standard specifications for a mid-size needle (Nm 90-110) of each system. However, very thick sizes can have a slightly larger shank, so check the packet for sizes above Nm 160.

• Shank dia.: thickness of the top part that goes into the needle clamp.
• Butt to eye: distance from the top of the needle to the start of the eye. This number decides the stitch timing, so it must match.
• Total length: top of the needle to the point.
• Eye to tip: how far the point goes below the eye.

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart: Lockstitch and Button Needles (mm)

Overlock, Flatlock, Chainstitch and Bag Closer Needles (mm)

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart: Nm vs Singer Numbers

The metric size (Nm) is the blade thickness in hundredths of a millimetre. So Nm 90 means 0.90 mm. Meanwhile, the second number (like 14) is the Singer or US size for the same needle, which is why packets print “90/14”. In short, a bigger number means a thicker needle for heavier fabric.

Also, match the needle to your thread. If the thread frays or breaks at the eye, go one size up. For the Nm definition, see sewing machine needle on Wikipedia.

Needles That Look the Same but Do Not Fit

In fact, most wrong orders happen because two needles look identical in the hand. So here are the mix-ups we see most often at our shop.

Needle Point Types: Which Tip for Which Fabric

After system and size, the letters on the packet show the point shape. Therefore, pick the point by fabric type: woven, knit or leather.

How to Identify an Unknown Needle

If the packet is lost, you can still find the right needle in about two minutes. For this, use a vernier caliper, or a steel scale for the lengths.

1. Check the top. A flat side means HAx1 (home machine). On the other hand, a fully round top means an industrial needle.
2. Measure the top thickness. About 1.62 mm means DBx1. About 2.0 mm means DPx5, DCx27, UY128GAS or another industrial system.
3. Measure top to eye. Then compare it with the sewing machine needle size chart in mm: 28.6 is DCx27, 33.9 is DBx1 or DPx5, and 38.9 is DPx17 or UY128GAS. Above 42 mm, it is a bag closer needle.
4. Read the size. Finally, look for the number stamped on the top, like 90 or 110.

Still unsure? Send a photo of the needle next to a scale on WhatsApp at +91 74474 49590, and we will tell you the exact needle before you order.

When to Change Your Needle

A needle wears out long before it breaks. For example, in a factory running 8 hours a day, change it every shift on knits and every 2-3 days on woven fabric. Also change it right away if you see:

• Skipped stitches that start suddenly
• Thread fraying or breaking at the eye
• Small holes or pulled threads on knit fabric
• A popping sound when the needle enters the fabric
• A bent needle (roll it on a flat glass surface to check)

However, if a new needle does not stop skipped stitches, check tension and timing next. Our tension pull test और maintenance checklist explain how.

Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart FAQ

Which needle is used in a JACK F4 or Juki DDL-8700?

Both use DBx1, which is also called 16×257 or 1738. Use size 90/14 for most garments, 75/11 for shirts and 110/18 for denim.

Which needle is used in an overlock machine?

Industrial overlock machines like JACK E4 and Juki MO use DCx27. In fact, it is the same needle as B27, 81×1 and DCx1.

Which needle is used in an interlock or flatlock machine?

Most interlock and flatlock machines, like JACK W4, Pegasus W500 and Siruba F007, use UY128GAS. Also, it is sold as TVx3 and 149×3.

What do the two numbers on a needle packet mean, like 90/14?

90 is the metric size, so the blade is 0.90 mm thick. Meanwhile, 14 is the Singer size of the same needle.

What is the length of a DBx1 needle?

A standard DBx1 is 38.1 mm long. Its top (shank) is 1.62 mm thick, and the eye starts 33.9 mm from the top.

Can I use DPx5 needles in place of DBx1?

No. Although the eye is at the same height, DPx5 has a 2.00 mm top and DBx1 has a 1.62 mm top. So DPx5 will not fit a DBx1 needle clamp.

Which needle size is best for denim and for T-shirts?

For denim, use 100/16 to 110/18, and 120/19 or more for heavy jeans. For T-shirts and knits, use 70/10 to 80/12 with a ball point (SES or FFG).

Can I use DBx1 needles in a walking foot machine?

No. Walking foot and compound feed machines need DPx17 (135×17). Its eye sits 5 mm lower than on DBx1, so with a DBx1 the hook misses the thread loop and you get skipped stitches. For leather on the same machines, use DPx16 (135×16), which has a cutting point.

Why does my machine skip stitches only on knit fabric?

Usually the point is wrong, not the machine. A round point (R) cuts the knit loops instead of sliding between them. So switch to a ball point (SES or FFG) in the same system and size.

Do Organ, Groz-Beckert and Schmetz needles interchange?

Yes, as long as the system and size are the same. For example, an Organ DBx1 90/14 fits wherever any other brand’s DBx1 90/14 fits.

What is the overlock machine needle size?

The standard overlock machine needle is DCx27 (also B27 and 81×1), sold in sizes Nm 50 to 140. It is 33.1 mm long, with a 2.02 mm top and the eye 28.6 mm from the top. For T-shirt jersey and light knits, overlock needle sizes 70/10 to 75/11 work best, and 80/12 suits rib, all with a ball point (SES or FFG).

Which needle does a Brother sewing machine use?

It depends on the machine type. Brother home machines use the flat-shank HAx1 (also 130/705 H) in sizes Nm 60 to 130. Brother industrial machines such as the S-7200 use the round-shank DBx1 in sizes Nm 55 to 200. A flat-shank needle cannot be used in an industrial clamp, and the reverse is also true.

What is the JACK sewing machine needle size?

JACK F4, F5, A2, A4 and A5 lockstitch machines use DBx1, which is 38.1 mm long and comes in Nm 55 to 200. Size 90/14 fits most garments, 75/11 suits shirts and 110/18 suits denim. JACK E4 and C4 overlock machines use DCx27 instead, so confirm the series before ordering.

Is Groz-Beckert Vietnam a genuine Groz-Beckert needle?

Yes. Groz-Beckert, the German needle maker, opened a production subsidiary in Ai Nghia, Vietnam in 2008 and a sales affiliate in Ho Chi Minh City in 2013, so Groz-Beckert Vietnam is part of the group, not a separate brand. Fit still depends on the system and size: a DBx1 90/14 fits the same wherever it was made, so check those two marks on the packet.

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Related guides: Interlock vs Flatlock Machines | Presser Foot Types | Shop All Sewing Machine Needles

Measurements are standard manufacturer specifications for each needle system. Small differences of a few tenths of a millimetre can occur between brands and between very thin and very thick sizes.

Written by Aashu, owner of Stitch Partner. We supply genuine needles and spare parts to factories, boutiques and home tailors across India, and this chart is the one we use at our own counter.